Michael Keller / Bookbinding & Restoration
Private and Institutional Hand Binding and Restoration
in Southern Ontario, Canada since 1974.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
ON THE RESTORATION OF BOOKS
AND
A BOOKBINDING MISCELLANY;
more enquiries, more answers on many more topics
"What is the difference between 'RESTORATION' and
'REPAIR' ?"
Repair can mean most anything thought to improve or fix damage.
Restoration, on the other hand, implies an effort to return an item to its
original state of function and aesthetics. If restoration is what is desired for
a book or document, the process requires treatment dependant on the item's
unique set of circumstances. Experience, attention to detail, and handwork are
required for satisfactory, permanent results.
"What exactly is done to my book ?"
In a typical full
restoration, the book is disassembled down to it's smallest components; each
part is cleaned of any old adhesive residues, acidic and metal materials, etc.;
then examined for structural integrity and re-enforced / repaired accordingly;
some parts are specially prepared to allow for the introduction of new
materials, for example, creating a new spine where the original has failed or is
non-existent; the parts are then re-assembled (for sewn books, this involves
hand sewing and rebacking); the binding itself is the last to be re-assembled
using a wide variety of materials and techniques.
"Can my book be repaired ?"
Torn and tattered pages
can be permanently mended with acid-free materials; detached covers and spines
can be restored by creating new bindings underneath the original structure;
loose pages and broken books can be made whole again by disbinding the entire
book and resewing, shaping and rebinding, using as much of the surviving
original binding as possible.
"Is my book worth fixing ?"
The hand restoration of
books and documents can be relatively expensive, when compared with replacing
the item with another copy in better condition. In 25 years of repairing books
for the public, it has been my experience that the commercial value of
approximately 9 out of 10 items is less than the cost of restoration. Usually,
the decision to have an item professionally restored depends on personal
sentiment.
"Are there any alternatives to hand restoration
?"
Rebuilding a book or paper artifact requires the repair and
reconstruction of all of the remaining original parts. As no two books are
identical, there is no machine capable of doing this procedure. Companies
offering a mechanical rebinding solution can create a serviceable "reading copy"
of a once broken book very inexpensively. However, in doing so, they must
permanently destroy the original construction and appearance of the book .
"Can you just put the covers back on ?"
Usually, in the
case of older books with "detached boards" (covers separated from the book), the
back of the book must be completely cleaned of all old adhesives, etc. and new
backing cloth applied with a modern, PERMANENT adhesive in order to reattach the
boards to the book. This can be, and occasionally is, done. The problem is, the
next weakest link in the construction of most books is the thread which actually
holds all of the pages together. Even if the thread appears to be stable, it is
usually the next thing to fail. When it does, sections become loose, pages begin
to creep forward or fall out, etc. The only permanent solution to this is to
completely disbind the item down to its smallest component sections
("signatures") and clean, resew, and reback... However, if it has already been
rebacked with a modern, permanent adhesive, this can increase the problems of
restoration 3 or 4-fold, and turn an otherwise straight- forward restoration
into a very expensive process. This long term drawback to solving an external
problem such as detached boards should always be considered.
"How long will my restored book last ?"
If a book has
been completely reconstructed, the weakest link remaining is usually the paper
itself. If the paper is of reasonably good quality and the book stored under
favourable conditions, the book will in all likelihood last as long as the
paper. The use of acid-free, strong and permanent materials means that the
structure of the book is now at least as strong as the day it was published;
usually stronger. There may come a day when the book you have restored today
becomes one of the few copies to survive the ravages of time.
A BOOKBINDING MISCELLANY;
more enquiries, more answers on the following topics:
Some problems with trying to bind single pages
I have a collection of emails that I would like to have bound. It is currently
approximately 150 pages in length. The pages are 5.25" x 8.25".
Preferably, I would like to keep the cost of the endeavor below $*00.
Could you possibly supply me with a range of prices, given different
materials for the binding (ie leather vs cloth).
T. D., Maryland
First, I will need to know if the "150 pages" are in the form of single
sheets. If so, I regret that the only practical method of securing
them together with anything approaching a hope for longevity, is to
pinch the spine together using a very strong thread and permanent
adhesives. This will, of course, limit the inner 'gutter'
(space running between the two text areas of facing pages) and
the finished text block will never be able to lay flat when opened.
The deeper the 'pinch', the more secure the binding.
As to outer cover, I
will quote you for a 1/4 cloth (spine only) case-binding, with decorative paper
covering the boards. The price will include all materials, return shipping/handling,
and a hand-set, small label affixed to the spine.
I regret that time will not
permit me to explore all of the possible materials and variants possible in a job such as this.
Spacing between two facing pages
Could you please specify how much space is needed for the inner gutter,
so I might format my pages properly?
T. D., Maryland
The quick answer is: the wider the 'gutter'[see previous answer], the easier it will
be to read the text. The method I usually employ for binding
single sheets together involves 'dovetail' cuts made into the spine
edge of the sheets, the deeper they go into the paper the more
effective the hold. I would think that given your dimensions and
no. of pgs., a quarter inch would be more than sufficient. To
illustrate the effect, take a sheaf of paper, pinch it tightly
about a quarter inch into the spine, and then see the effect as the
sheaf is opened.
From a structural viewpoint, 'books' should Always
be created from folded double pages juxtaposed in multiples to create
'signatures' Whenever possible. This allows the 'signatures'
[sections] to be sewn together (through the fold) - thus creating
a typical book format - structurally sensible and opening flat.
How does one get your printer to print juxtaposed pages on both sides
of the paper ? Now that's the $64.00 question. There are
numerous programs out there but it all depends on your systems.
I hesitate to go into any greater detail, as this is a very broad
subject.
The importance of printing 'double pages'
How would you require I submit my manuscript? Currently, it is a
Microsoft Word document, formatted with 5.25" by 8.5" page size and
quarter inch margins.
If you require me to print it beforehand (which I
expect would be the case), do you have any specific requirements as to how
it is printed, etc?
T. D., Maryland
"From a structural viewpoint, 'books' should Always be created
from folded double pages juxtaposed in multiples to create
'signatures'..."
To put it another way, the ONLY way to wind up with a "real" book
is to print the text into signature format. Binding single sheets
permanently together has severe limitations. How one does this
with your particular computer system, programs and requirements
would require finding, learning and executing one of a number of
programs, [or utilities, or even a program macro(s)].
One printing solution
I believe that I have found a way to produce my project in signature format.
I took a look at the trial version of Adobe Pagemaker, but really
couldn't get it to work that easily. So, I did some more research on the
internet and finally came to a good understanding of exactly what a signature
was... With this in mind, I decided to go ahead and manually format my
Word document, basically cutting and pasting the pages so that they were in
the proper order for the signature...
I intend to print the pages in the following manner:
each formatted page of text is 5.5" x 8.5"
Two pages per side, on 11" x 17" paper
Pages 1 and 16 on front, with 2 and 15 on back of first page...
Pages 3 and 14 on front, with 4 and 13 on back of second page, etc.
Correct me if I am wrong, but if I followed that format, the manuscript
would be suitable for signature format?
T. D., Maryland
Uneven page edges
Sounds right to me. Just one little thing though; when
interleaving or 'nesting' multiple folded sheets within a single
gathering, you cannot end up with a square [flush] fore-edge
(front edge of the pages). When sewn together, the combined
effect is called a picket fence edge, for obvious reasons. Some
folks like the look of it, while others insist on trimming it
square.
Alternatives to leather binding
I would like to get a quote on a one-of custom binding project The page
size is approximately 9" high by 6" wide, and I have it printed on 70 lbs
acid-free stock. It is printed in 5-sheet signatures (20 pages total per
signature) that are currently 17x11 and will need to be cut down and sewn
together. There are 14 signatures total, for a total of 280 pages.
I'd like it case bound with a dark brown leather cover, and I'd like to
get a quote both with and without gold stamping on the cover and spine.
My goal is a beautiful book that will last, if cared for, for a couple
hundred years.
I'd like to get both a price quote, as well as an estimate
of how long it will take you to return a completed book once I have shipped
you the pages.
P. K., California
First of all, your bibliographic specifications are impressive and much appreciated;
As to the actual work, the fact that you had the knowledge and foresight to print on double-page sheets should make the matter of hand-sewing onto cloth tapes, backing, etc. a very straight forward matter.
The only exception I would make to your proposed project is the matter of the 'FULL' leather binding. As this would entail a sizeable piece of calf, which I rarely have to hand; may I suggest a 'HALF' leather binding (i.e. leather spine and board corners / with the remainder of the boards covered in an imported hand-marbled paper). Most people seem to prefer the finished look as being much "showier" than just leather - it also has the advantage of requiring much smaller pieces of leather which I always have in abundance, in a wide variety of colours.
I also regret that I do not normally do gold leaf hand-tooling; I do however make hot-stamped spine labels with a variety of metallic foils. As this spine will be rather skinny, may I suggest a simple 2 or 3 word spine title in (usually) an 18pt. romanesque font on a binding cloth label of a complementary colour, which is then applied to the spine ? {will need title...}
If the above is suitable for your purposes, I would be willing to do this project (as described) for $*.00 (Canadian) + S/H. or: brown binding cloth (half-bound) $ *.00 (Can.) + S/H. [which, if you are an American, is currently equivalent to about $ 2.87 (joke)]. The time required shouldn't be more than 30 days from receipt of materials.
Just one more tech. detail while I think of it: are there blank sheet(s) at the beginning and end of the book which could form natural pastedowns (endpapers) ?
Special concerns for Full Leather bindings
I'm still enamored with the "full-leather" binding idea, but you were
not the only person to suggest a half-leather binding, and I'm trying to
decide now.
P. K., California
Hmmm, lets put it this way; if you want to find a suitable source
(online ?) for a full or even half skin [calf, goat, etc.] of high quality, properly tanned
- suitable for binding, in a colour and finish of your choice, at
a price you can handle; order it, and when it finally arrives
(via Europe ?), ship it off to me with the printed sheets - then
I would be delighted to execute your full leather binding for you
at the same price quoted for the "half leather" binding...
What labeling do you offer ?
I would be interested to see what the hot-stamped foil spine label you are
suggesting would look like.
P. K., California
Pretty straight forward stuff here. I hot-stamp the hand-set type
onto an appropriate coloured piece of binding cloth, trim and
adhere with PVA. Neat and aesthetically simple. Theoretically,
it could be done on a piece of leather, but this requires the
leather label to be hand-pared down to "skiver" thinness and that
presents a time-consuming challenge, so I never bother anymore
(nor even offer the option). I do have a modest selection of type
fonts and a fairly wide range of coloured foils; but if left to my
own good judgment - which is nearly always, I go with a matching
or at least co-ordinating colour cloth / roman font in an
appropriate size / and 'gold' foil.
Adding blank sheets at beginning and end of text
You asked if there are any blank sheets at the beginning or end as
natural endpapers: there are at the back, but not at the front...
this brings to mind another question: before printing the finalized document,
is there anything else I should consider re. endpapers ?
P. K., California
If the pastedowns are not part of the first and last sewn
signatures, they will be added toward the end of the binding
process. The downside is, they are added by "tipping in"
simply using a tiny bead of glue along the fold... this can present
a potential weak spot in the overall structural integrity of the
binding - as opposed to the security of having them literally sewn
into the text block with everything else. Structurally this is a fairly
minor point, however, in the interest of aesthetic uniformity, if you are
printing your pages on special paper, you should either include several blank
pages at the beginning and end of the text, or include several full size blank
sheets with the printed text. If I have nothing else, I will simply use white
archival paper to create 'tipped-in' endpapers.
If you have any
special decorative paper(s) in mind, you may wish
to supply them yourself, and perhaps even include enough to cover the
boards on the outside binding; thereby guaranteeing your complete
satisfaction with what the finished book will look like.
Family Bible restoration
I have an old family leather bound bible that is in need of repair and
restoration. In particular, I would like to be able to add some extra
pages in the family history section. Do you do this sort of work, and
if so, what is the rough cost for this type of service?
K. G.
...Inclusion of additional paper
is usually a routine matter.
For the rest, all I can say
without actually handling the book in question is that a typical
full restoration for a large [family] Bible is between $*00.00 and
$*00.00 (Can.) and the time element is wholly dependant on what
other work I have at hand at any particular time... usually
anywhere from 4 weeks to 3 months.
Specialty Binding / non-text content
...I would like some of my photoprints bound. The prints consist of 2
sets of of 8½ x 11" 35 lb. matte photo quality ink jet paper, printed on
one side only. They are not page numbered, but will be placed in the
correct order. ... one set needs to
be bound in horizontal (landscape) format, the other in vertical (portrait)
format. The usual end-papers should be added, and the cover may be of
cloth or other appropriate stock, with a small title stamped on the front
and the spine.
H. D. P.,Elliot Lake, Ontario
Before I can give any estimate as to how big a job this could be;
the wide variety of binding options would have to be explained and
discussed at some length. It really has to do with what type of
book you want to wind up with (i.e., one that opens completely and
lies flat as a typical book does, would require joining your single
sheets into pairs so that they may be folded and sewn through that
fold... etc., etc.)...
Specialty Binding / mechanical binder
I have what is probably an unusual inquiry. I would like to have a black
leather hard-cover bookbinding made. I do not want any pages bound in
it; instead I intend to have a standard 3-ring binder mechanism riveted
into the spine, and if this was something you could also include, that
would be better still. What I am describing to this point may not seem
much different than a nice photo album, but I need to place 17" x 13"
sheets into the book, so it is going to be unusually large (but only 2
inches deep). Is this "Artist's Portfolio" something you can make?
J. E. B.
There are all sorts of styles and sizes of 'ring binder' devices;
it sounds as though you might be best off supplying the device, and
let the binder build the spine element of the "book" around it.
I would be willing to take on this challenge if you would agree to
one change... Instead of a full-leather binding which you suggest
(requiring a rather substantial piece of black leather - which I
seldom have to hand) may I instead offer either a black cloth or
black leather spine with complementary corners on the boards; the
rest of the boards being covered with a decorative paper.
This binding style is called a "half binding" and seems to
be widely preferred by most people as being much more "decorous"
than a plain "full binding". It also has the advantage of
requiring relatively smaller pieces of cloth or leather, which I
usually have in abundance in a wide variety of colours and finishes.
I would be
willing to do this project as described
above, in cloth (mechanism provided by you) for $ *.00 (Canadian)
+ S/H. In leather (half-binding): $*.00 (Can.) + S/H. The
turn around time probably wouldn't exceed 30 days from receipt of the
mechanism.
Specialty Binding / blank book with specialty paper
Can you custom-make a book for me? I am looking to have made a blank book bound in leather, about 300 pages with handmade paper that I can supply myself. The dimensions of the book should be roughly 81/2 by 11 inches. Can you give me a quote on cost?
F. H.
...The quick answer is yes. I presume you are familiar with
sewn books and realize 300 pages represents 150 'leaves'
[a page on each side], and since it will be sewn together
through the folds of 'sheets' [1 sheet folded = 2 leaves = 4 pp.]
the dimensions of this hand made paper must far exceed 8 1/2 x 11".
Having said that, I can create a hand-sewn (on cloth tapes) volume
of this size, and bind it in half calf style (leather spine and
corners with decorative paper covered boards for apx.
$*.00 - $*.00 (Canadian) dependant on the number of folded sheets
in each 'signature' (gathering) [i.e. the amount of time required
for hand-sewing].
Specialty Binding / Guest - Autograph Book
I am writing from the ... Reading Series and the ... Festival of Authors.
Every author who reads for us signs an autograph book. Unfortunately,
our current book is full and we need to purchase a new one.
It needs to
be archive quality, on acid free paper. It needs hard covers and to be
apx. 17 cm wide by 25 cm tall. The book we currently have is about 60
pages. What would it cost for you to make and how long would it take?
M. A.
I have created several such Guest Books over the years for
various institutions affiliated with the Univ. of Western Ontario.
...Some things to consider:
covering materials - I can offer a wide variety of colours in calf
leather or binding cloth, assuming a "half-bound" style [leather
spine and corners w/ hand-marbled paper] is acceptable. However,
if there is any cloth (tartan, printed, etc.) you feel might be
appropriate; it can usually be treated in such a way as to make a
stable binding material...
blank text block - you asked if I could create a sewn block of
blank archival stock - yes, but this could represent a high
percentage of the final cost. If you could find a "ready-made"
blank book appropriate for your needs (with or without covers);
it could be used as the basis of a special binding; thus affording
your organization a significant savings over having one built from
scratch.
cover embellishments - have you considered any "artistic extras" for
the outside binding ? Is there any simple logo emblem, etc. that
might lend itself to being recreated into the finished exterior ?
title page - any printed sheets you wish to supply can be added to
the beginning or end of the text block prior to binding. This
would be entirely at your discretion. Ideas and requirements can
be discussed...
As to time, dependant of course on your choices, I would
think a month would normally be sufficient turn-around time ...
"blind" estimates
I have a hard cover large format copy of Richard Scarry's Busy Busy World
that needs to be re-bound. Could you please give me an idea of the type
of binding that could be used (in laymen's terms) and a ball-park cost and
time.
H.
...please refer to my webpage for restoration factors you should consider.
Without having the item before me, or any description as to
condition, the only cost/time ball-park I could give you is:
1 to 8 weeks / $65.00 to $650.00 (Can.)... pretty big stadium...
Free estimates
...I have found a copy of GONE WITH THE WIND belonging to my mother.
...There is much sentimental value associated to this book. Knowing
nothing about books I am guessing it is a first edition, fifth printing.
The condition of the book is in my opinion poor. There is no spine at all
and the two covers are being held by tape. Most the pages are torn and
some are loose.
I am interested in see what cost would be associated in
attempting to return this books to display condition.
I can take a number
of digital images of the condition of the book if this would help in
determining the amount of work that would be needed to restore the book.
Perhaps being a fifth printing the book has no value and we would be better
served purchasing a better quality version from a rare book dealer.
D. H.
...I recall doing a couple of copies of this title over the years,
and seem to remember them being a bit larger than the usual novel.
...Images would of course be helpful, but I am loathe to give any
estimate without a hands-on assessment.
...The question of commercial value vs. the relatively high cost of
hand-restoration is an important one; please see my comments on
this at my website.
As you see from my address,
I am located in southern Ontario, Canada, and if you wish to
further pursue hand restoration, you would be best advised to
send the item along to me for a free estimate (although there
is a $**.00 Can. return shipping and pkg. cost, regardless of
outcome). Complete contact information is also found on my
website.
Please advise prior to sending any item.
Antiquarian binding styles
I have recently purchased a wonderful edition of the Federalist Papers....
the only problem is that during the sixties someone bound the edition in
red silk!!! I was hoping you would be able to rescue this book.
What would you recommend to make the book's binding as original as possible
to what was used during the period and how long a turn around time from
start to finish?
...if I wanted full calf where would I get the leather
from? Could you supply it and I would pay you for it?
J. K., New York
Assuming a very straight forward hollow spine, 1/2 calf
/w. marbl.ppr. binding; leaving the text block entirely alone, save
for rebacking of course, my rate would be $*.00 (Can.) per standard
quarto volume, materials incl. This would
include a hand-set, 2 line spine label in gold foil on cloth,
headbands, plain replacement endpapers, should they be required;
and a variety of leather colours to choose from.
The "full
leather" option would be about the same price, however *you* would
have to supply the leather in a size sufficiently large enough for
the work.
As to what I would recommend to make the book's binding
as original as possible to what was used during the period;
good question... long answer. The norm for that period
[up to mid-19th cent.] was for publishers to issue in "publisher's
binding" i.e. either printed paper "wraps" or a very temporary 1/4
cloth with (usually printed) paper covered boards. The assumption
was that the purchaser would take it to his favourite binder and
have it 'properly' bound.
I do a traditional 1/4 cloth (unbleached cotton) w/ ppr.
covered boards binding which approximates a common publishers'
style; the problem is that it looks Very New And Clean and thus
rather incongruous.
As to 'turn-around time for this commission; if it is as straight
forward as stated, after receipt of item, it shouldn't be more
than 3-4 weeks + return post time.
And while I think of it, you stated the text block itself
appears to be in good shape, however, if it is still held
together with the original sewing - that is by far the weakest
link in the chain and it is just a matter of time before it begins
to fail. As this sewing is what actually holds the book together,
the problem is that once you spend serious money to *permanently*
fix the outer covering, this very work greatly adds to the problems
and expense when the text block begins to 'unravel' and the whole
tome needs complete disassembly and resewing. I believe I address
this common concern on my website, and I mention it here just to
be certain you appreciate the down-side of dealing only with the
outside of a very old book.
If, once I have had an opportunity
to fully examine the item, I find any part of the text block
already too structurally compromised; I must, in all good
conscience, NOT proceed any farther as you would just be wasting
your money on any covering over an intrinsically unstable book.
Should this be the case, after communicating the problem(s)/
solution(s) to you, if you decide a full restoration is not to be
done... the item [as is] will be returned to you at your expense,
and I will not be held responsible for ANY work/damage done prior
to its return to you. I regret that an element of trust on your
part is necessary due to the potential problems inherent in any
'blind' negotiation. And unfortunately, due to the myriad of
variables, any accurate work estimate prior to actual inspection,
is virtually impossible.
Specialty Binding / bound school album
please advise if you bind childrens school work into book form i would
like an estimate and time frame for completeing if possible the content
would include school work, art work, school photos etc 100 pages +
please advise if a hard or leather cover sould be done
k m
...While a hand-sewn, hand-bound album
is of course possible, you should be aware that such a project
would easily exceed $100.00 and more than likely exceed $200.00.
Single sheets, to be properly rendered into freely opening sewn
pages, would require individual "guarding", etc. At *.00/hr.,
this can quickly become a very expensive book...
On the plus side,
the resulting bound book will be permanent [dependant on the
physical qualities of the contents] and open flat.
The aesthetics
of the covering could be as expensive, or plain as you wish.
As for time-frame; right now I could probably manage such a project within
a month or two of receipt of contents.
Studio appointments
We are interested in receiving an estimate to restore a family bible. Please
advise if you have weekend business hours when you could look at our bible.
D. C.
I assume you are writing from South Western Ontario.
My restoration studio is in my home and appointments can usually
be arranged, given enough notice, for any day of the week most
convenient to you. You may advise me of a date and time that's
good for you and I will get back to you with confirmation.
Binding multiple copies of new books
I have a textbook that requires binding that would require a durable cover.
It doesn't have to have anything on the cover, just a plain colour. We are
looking at doing short runs of 20 to 30 at a time. The book is currently
used in high schools but only has a soft cover and we are getting requests
for a hard cover. The total number of pages is 104 and it is printed on
28lb colour laser paper. We haven't had any luck with companies
that are willing to do a short run so we are looking outside of T* now.
Could you tell me what the cost would be to bind a set of 20 books with a
hard cover so it looks like a real textbook?
D. A.
...I am fundamentally a book restorer / hand-binder and my price
per unit (even after a quantity discount) will reflect this fact.
Also, the style of binding will be in keeping with hand-work, as
opposed to mass produced machine work.
Having said that, I could handle a run of 20 - 30 units at one
time ["turnaround" apx. 1 to 2 months from receipt of units]. The
binding would be a "hollow-back" case; quarter [spine only] cloth
[blue binding cloth]; boards [ .066 millage assuming finished book
does not exceed 8" in any direction] would be paper [blue?, grey?]
covered. The spine would be reinforced (depending on whether it
is squared or rounded) with either stiff card or a strip of binding
board. The price would include a very short 2 or 3 word spine
title, hot-stamped [gold or black] onto the spine.
The above relates only to the external cover and assumes the text
block is received intact and ready for "casing in".
If the text
is in folded, unsewn / unbacked signatures [folded sections], they
can be hand-sewn and backed - however, depending on the number of
signatures, this could at least double the final binding price.
Per unit cost (making a lot of assumptions as to dimensions and
nature of the text-block) would be $*.00 (CND) each, plus shipping
and handling. I will require 50% in advance of each lot.
I
cannot, of course, commit myself to this project before actually
seeing the book in question. I would be glad to render a single
copy for the above stated price, for the purpose of example.